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Traveling through Afghanistan was one of the most intense, beautiful, and human experiences I’ve ever had. I spent eight days exploring the country with Ezatullah, my guide, although calling him just a guide doesn’t really reflect what he became during this journey. Very quickly, he turned into a friend, someone I could rely on completely, and someone who knows his country with incredible depth.

It all began at the Hairatan border between Uzbekistan and Afghanistan. Ezatullah met me in the neutral zone between the two countries, where movement is possible on both sides. We crossed the border separately because the checkpoints are distinct, but located less than a kilometer apart. Once the formalities were completed, we met again on the Afghan side and crossed the bridge together into the country. From the very first moments, he was there to help with everything, making the entry smooth and stress-free.

Before arriving in Afghanistan, I had obtained my visa in Termez, Uzbekistan, at the Afghan embassy. The process involved several steps: first a consular registration costing around 10 euros, then a handwritten letter explaining the purpose of the visit, and finally a payment at a bank in Termez. Everything required moving between different places by taxi. Once everything was done, I left my passport at the embassy and collected it later that afternoon with the visa ready. The visa itself cost 130 USD.

My journey started in Mazar-e-Sharif, where I stayed in a very comfortable hotel with good Wi-Fi and excellent breakfasts. On the first day, we also went to a swimming pool, which was a surprisingly relaxing way to begin the trip. From there, we went to Balkh with a mandatory armed guide, which cost around 6 euros. In Balkh, we explored ancient ruins, the remains of the old citadel, and historical sites including the Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa Mosque. It felt like walking through layers of history. Back in Mazar-e-Sharif, I visited the stunning Blue Mosque, also known as the Shrine of Ali, which cost around 5 euros to enter. It was one of the most impressive places I saw during the entire trip. We spent the evening watching the sunset, taking photos, and I had my first Kabuli Pulao.

The next day, we left early for Kabul. The drive took the whole day, around eight in the morning until late afternoon. The road itself was incredible, crossing mountains, rivers, and dramatic landscapes. We stopped many times along the way, sometimes to eat, sometimes to take photos, and sometimes just to sit by freezing mountain water and rest. Arriving in Kabul, we stayed in the Shahre Naw district.

In Kabul, the trip became even more personal. I met Ezatullah’s family, and on one of the last days we also shared a meal with them in Kabul, which gave an even deeper sense of connection to his life and culture. We visited the Sakhi Shrine, which overlooks the city and offers a panoramic view of Kabul. We also visited the Jami Mosque, walked through the busy bazaar, and saw the Blue Mosque of Kabul. Each place showed a different side of the city, between spirituality, history, and everyday life.

From Kabul, we travelled to Bamiyan, a journey of about three hours through stunning mountain scenery. Along the way, we stopped for fruit, meals by the river, and moments of rest in the mountains. In Bamiyan, we visited Shahr-e Gholghola, also known as the City of Screams, which overlooks the valley. We also explored the site of the Buddhas of Bamiyan. Even though the statues are no longer there, the massive carved niches in the cliffs remain, and it is still possible to enter the caves and see ancient frescoes that survived destruction.

The following day, we visited Band-e Amir National Park, one of the most beautiful natural places in the country. The turquoise lakes surrounded by mountains felt almost unreal. We spent the day walking, relaxing, and taking a pedalo on the lake. It was one of the most peaceful moments of the entire trip.

On the way back to Kabul, we continued exploring different sides of the country. We visited a shopping mall, met a photographer who took several portraits, spent time at the War Museum, and relaxed for a few hours in a water park. Later, we also made a short trip to Ghazni, where we saw ancient fortresses and minarets and shared a meal with local friends. I wasn’t feeling well that day, so we returned earlier than planned to Kabul.

The last day in Kabul was quieter. We visited the Gardens of Babur, a peaceful historical site, and the National Museum of Afghanistan, located near an old palace and filled with fascinating artifacts. We also walked around the city, bought souvenirs, and visited a learning center where Ezatullah had studied English, which was a meaningful stop in understanding his background.

If I had to describe Ezatullah, I would say he was far more than a guide. He was someone who took care of everything from the very beginning, long before the trip even started. He helped me prepare for more than six months, and once in Afghanistan, he managed every detail of the journey: transport, logistics, translation, safety, and unexpected situations. But beyond that, he made the experience deeply human. He adapts naturally to each guest he travels with, adjusting his communication and approach depending on the situation—whether he is with women, older travelers, or others—always ensuring comfort, respect, and ease. He knows everyone everywhere, stops for tea with strangers, talks, listens, and builds connections naturally. With him, you can truly let go and just experience the country, because everything is taken care of.

Throughout the trip, I also felt very safe. Despite common preconceptions, there was no moment where I felt in danger. There are checkpoints everywhere, and security presence is constant, which actually adds to a strong sense of structure and control on the roads and between regions. At no point did I encounter any problems.

On the last morning in Kabul, he drove me to the airport. We shared a final hug, and then I walked in alone. That moment marked the end of a journey I will never forget, not only because of the places I saw, but because of the people I met and especially because of the friendship that made it all possible.

Thanks for reading!

I visited Afghanistan with Ezat in early October 2026, for 7 days. I had a phenomenal time and had the opportunity to see where the massive Buddha statues once stood, visit the stunning blue lakes of Band-e Amir, travel up north to see Balkh and the famous Blue Mosque, and finally return to Kabul to visit Flag Hill, along with a few other historic sites and mosques.

On top of everything already on my itinerary, Ezat took me on some really fun side quests, such as playing American soccer with local Afghans, having the opportunity to attend and experience a traditional Afghan wedding, and even getting to go swimming.

Throughout the entire trip, I felt safe with Ezat as my guide. He is extremely knowledgeable about Afghanistan and knew exactly what he was doing to get us through each checkpoint smoothly and efficiently. A few characteristics that best describe Ezat are kind, flexible, knowledgeable, playful, and funny. Because of this, I was actually able to relax, enjoy all the sites, and have some really funny conversations with him along the way.

One thing worth mentioning is that Ezat is also a professional photographer. He knows exactly when to take pictures, where you should stand, and how you should pose to get the best shots.

10/10! I could not recommend Ezat enough for a once in a lifetime opportunity to experience Afghanistan. Having him as my guide made the entire experience that much better!

We were in Kabul, Bamyan and Ghazni. All these provinces I have an unique experiences. Highly recommend the company.

We were in Kabul, Bamyan and Ghazni. All these provinces I have an unique experiences. Highly recommend the company.

I am so happy to do as a tour guide with Sky Face Tour company

Me and my friend spent 5 days touring Afghanistan with Ezat and Sky Tour. We spent the first 2 days in Bamyan Province, then 2 days in Mazar-Sharif and Balkh, before returning to Kabul for the final day. He picked us up from the Torkham border, and returned us at the end of our tour. Enjoyable experience, good English and . Do prepare for unexpected events though, especially related to transport (sometimes you may end up with delays or missed flights!)

I was with this company in bamyan, and we have a good and amazing trip

Sky Face Travel top travel company, with secure services

Thanks to Sky Face Travel, our journey was safe, comfortable, and enjoyable.

I have experienced a great journey with Sky Face Travel company

The Travel was Amazing in Band-e-Amir.